Although acids have been used in cosmetics and the beauty industry in general for a long time, it was only a few years ago that acids started to become a topic of interest and debate among skincare enthusiasts and skin care professionals. This can be attributed to the fact that the beauty market has witnessed the emergence of a number of products with a minimal formulation based on a single active ingredient. Among these products are various serums with acids. This has made it easier for people to buy such products and use them at home. Although the concentration of acids in such products is usually low and relatively safe, a good understanding of the effects and uses of different acids is needed to improve the condition of the skin and not the other way around. Therefore, this time we will look in detail at one of the most popular ones, salicylic acid.
What is salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Naturally, this acid can be extracted from the bark of the willow tree. It can be found in various over-the-counter products. It is also available in prescription preparations. This acid is well known for helping to fight rashes and clogged pores. It also exfoliates the skin and keeps pores clean.
How does it work?
Due to its special structure, salicylic acid is soluble in sebum, allowing it to penetrate deeper into the skin pores. This is essentially the difference between beta hydroxy acids (BHA) and alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), as the latter are water-soluble and cannot penetrate as deeply into the pores, and only work on the surface of the skin.
Since salicylic acid can penetrate deep into the skin, this property makes it a powerful ingredient in the fight against acne, especially closed and open comedones (blackheads). This active ingredient also regulates and reduces sebum production in the skin.
Once it has penetrated the skin, salicylic acid dissolves skin residues and impurities that clog the pores, acts as an anti-inflammatory agent and helps various rashes to disappear faster. BHA acid also has exfoliating properties, or rather acts as a chemical facial scrub. It loosens the bonds that hold plump and dead skin cells on the surface. The skin becomes smoother, softer and regains its healthy colour and radiance.
How and when to use it?
Use salicylic acid products for the face every few days to start with and pay attention to how your skin reacts to the product. If your skin becomes irritated, take a break for a few days. After the break, try to get your skin used to this active ingredient again. Although BHA is a relatively safe ingredient, readily available and found in cosmetic products, it should be treated with caution. It is very important to use salicylic products according to the instructions - do not use more frequently or leave them on the skin for longer than the manufacturer or your skin care professional instructs.
Use products with this acid only in your evening routine. Be sure to apply sunscreen (min. SPF 50) in the morning, and renew every few hours during the day. If you use this acid during the warm season, it is recommended that you avoid direct sunlight and conscientiously apply sunscreen.
Which active ingredients should not be used with?
Salicylic acid should not be used simultaneously with retinoids, benzoyl peroxide and vitamin C. It is also not advisable to use it in combination with acids of the AHA group. If these ingredients are used in combination with BHA acid one after the other, the skin may become red, irritated and excessively dry.
If necessary, these ingredients can be used alternately on different days or at different times of the day.
Who should not use it?
It is advisable to avoid products with this ingredient during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Although studies show that over-the-counter skin care products with salicylic acid concentrations up to 2% are safe to use during both pregnancy and lactation, we recommend that you consult your doctor as a precaution. This acid is not recommended for use at a very young age. Caution should also be exercised when choosing products with this ingredient if you have dry, very sensitive facial skin or diseases such as eczema or rosacea. If you have all the above skin problems, you should consult a specialist about the use of salicylic.
How to choose?
Salicylic acid for the face can be found in topical skin care products, serums, creams, face masks and cleansers. Which product you choose depends on your skin type and the skin problem you have. If you have oily skin, blackheads or other rashes, then it is a good idea to choose a product with this acid for the whole face. This could be both a cream and a face wash. If you have combination or dehydrated skin, you may want to choose topical products with salicylic acid or products that you can use less frequently, such as face masks.
